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Ridgefield Stairways & Stoops
Masonry steps are often installed as part of a home’s foundation, though they can also serve as walkways or patios.
Masonry step construction should be handled by professionals, due to the fact that there are many factors that must be taken into consideration during the planning process. Due to these variables, it is difficult for non-professionals to determine the appropriate masonry step materials and layout if they have little or no experience in this area.
They do not need mortar behind them, since their strength comes from being tightly fitted together and having all four sides exposed. The top surface of each stone is at grade level (the same height as adjoining surfaces).
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Sandstone is the most common type of natural stone used in outdoor projects—many ideal bullnose steps projects found with sandstone material.
If you want to build the most durable, long-lasting outdoor steps possible, start with well-chosen stone. Choose sandstone for your bullnose steps projects—stonework that will stand up to years of wear and tear.
Wooden stairs are attractive, but they’re not always strong enough to withstand foot traffic. If you have wooden stairs in your house or yard, it’s important to invest in some kind of protective covering on the treads and risers. These are best made from a hard material such as brick, concrete, or natural stone (concrete can crack over time). Natural stone is also an excellent choice if you’re removing an existing staircase and installing a new one in its place.
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There are two types of stoops-flush and semi-flush. A flush step/stoop has no riser and the top surface is flat when it meets the front doorway (stairs are usually located on a side or rear entry). A semi-flush step has one step back from the sidewalk.
This type often leads to doorways that have windows opening into them, preventing the use of a full step. The steps have risers to prevent people from tripping over them as they come up to enter and exit their home.
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What do you put under paver stones?
The Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute recommends washed concrete sand as the best base sand for pavers. Concrete sand, also known as bedding sand, is coarse and doesn’t trap excess moisture beneath the paver surface.
Because a paver base should drain well and dry quickly, drainage is important. A footer allows for proper water flow away from the pavers though voids between blocks. Installers should tamp down a bedding layer at least 2 inches thick—preferably 3 inches or more.
If builders install pavers over soil that drains poorly without an adequate barrier, they could end up with issues like those seen in this photo.
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The first step in installing pavers on dirt or another soft surface like sand is to prepare the ground for laying your new paving stones. If you cannot dig down through hard soil and rock, it can still be possible to install pavers over an existing yard by placing concrete masonry units (CMU’s) such as cinder blocks or ‘rock’ at the edges of where your patio will be laid out. Using these stacked wall sections as barriers, level and then fill with poured concrete. Once this is set up, excavate
